This video shows how well the sail performs in windy conditions. My max speed topped 9.7MPH as shown in the picture. I really couldn’t believe the figures while having so much fun on the choppy seas.
As promised a few weeks ago, here is my step-by-step guide to make you kayak sail. Firstly lets start with the shopping list.
1. Ripstop Nylon – 1.5m x 150cm wide
2. 22mm Class PVC pipe x 2 (Cut to 6ft Length)
3. 18mm Dowel x 2 (Cut to 6ft Length)
4. Tee pieces for PVC pipe x 2
5. End capes to fit over pipe x 2
6. Bungee approx 5mm – 3 meters
7. Stainless steel hose clamps x 2
8. PVC sheeting (Only if you require a sail window)
9. Sail control line (amount is dependent on your setup) mine are direct so I required 4 meters of 4mm nylon line.
10. Extra strength sewing thread
Below are the dimensions required for the sail. My measurements do include an extra 1 1/2 inches top/bottom for the hem, and 2 inches extra either side to allow room for the PVC poles.
Good tip would be to measure twice and cut once. Although the fabric is pretty cheap it makes sense to get it right first time.
I firstly sewed the bottom piece followed by the top using the spare material for the hem with a zig-zag pattern for extra strength. The thread is extra strength rather than the regular stuff to keep everything nice and tight
You’ll see that I’ve cut 2 squares in the ripstop nylon which will later be used to attach the hose clamps. I also sewed around those edges to ensure it doesn’t fray or split in high winds.
Make sure the PVC pipe fits before sewing otherwise it starts getting very messy. Once complete it looks like below. The PVC window is all down to personal preference. I installed it to make the sail complete. You can purchase a Teflon foot for the sewing machine to prevent it from sticking to the sheeting, otherwise my cheaper alternative was to use washing up liquid, placing a fin film along the area I wanted to sew. This worked perfectly and doesn’t make any mess or stain the material (Pictured later).
I then used the webbing buckles from an old kayak seat to begin making the mount. Using a hot screw driver I pushed a hole in the centre which eliminates any frayed ends. I then unscrewed the pad eye, put the webbing into position and screwed back tight using all the existing pieces on the kayak. Don’t be tempted to drills holes, look first at what’s available and then decide.
This process is easy to achieve. inside the PVC piping are the 18mm dowels. They are a perfect fit which make the poles very strong and stable. Using marine goop or any good adhesive glue the tee pieces and end caps on, although end caps are not essential.
I sewed a piece of webbing to the bottom part of the sail to secure tight around the hose pipe. This prevents the sail from riding up the poles. Theres nothing special about the yellow pipe. It’s from my garden hose. Run another piece of webbing all the way through as pictured.
Now cut a piece of pipe insulation or even a swimming pole noodle will do the trick
Place it around the hose pipe and PVC tees ready to secure with masking tape or any suitable strong bonding tape.
I put quite a lot of tape around the foam for extra strength.
I left the middle exposed to allow the poles to move around when using the sail. The reason for putting this on is to stop the PVC tees from scratching the kayak.
Utilising the webbing from the hose, you can begin to piece it together. Using the buckles make sure you thread it through correctly.
Once i’d secured the sail to the kayak I folded the loose ends of the webbing under the buckle to prevent it loosening under pressure. This works perfectly.
Using the bungee, I fitted a yellow ball to a carabiner to make attaching/disconnect very easy. This bungee then fits onto the sail.
The bungee runs right up to the gaps in the sail you’ve made which connect to the hose clamps on either side. Put the hose clamp around the PVC pole and then your bungee line followed by your controlling lines underneath as pictured. Once everything is in place you must tighten up the hose clamps to prevent any of those lines slipping when the sail is in use. The bungee must be tight, however not so tight that you cannot pull the sail down and stow for paddling. I’m not giving any instructions on how to secure the sail control lines (My red lines) because I’m still coming up with ideas which do not involve me drilling holes anywhere.
This sail is very simple to make, and although it make not perform exactly like the pacific action sail, it’s fun and very cheap to make. Shop around and looks for bargain where possible. My sail cost all in £30 to make. The most expensive part being the wooden dowels at £7 each. Other bits and pieces I found in the garage from previous jobs which helped cut the price in some areas.
More than anything though, I hope this helps.